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Saturday, December 5, 2009

PRINCIPLES OF MANAGEMENT



PRINCIPLES OF MANAGEMENT
DMT 1313
ASSINGMENT 1
Discuss a following question. Read the question carefully .where necessary,provide relevant examples to support your explanations or arguments . the report should be 5 pages and above in length (1.5 spacing) and should be divided into main sections: introduction,discussion and conclusion.A list of references is also required. To get good marks : check your facts,grammar and writing techniques.
Read about contemporary entrepreneur described in a newspaper,Internet,or magazine article.Discuss the vision,attitude and leadership style of the leader. How did the leader make you feel? Would you like to work for this leader ?why or why not?
Dior world class fashion brand owner is Christian Dior yes than name who build empire of Dior around the world. Dior is Exclusive fashion house every body want wear the design form Dior boutiques.In 1905 Christian Dior was born in the town of Greenville on the French coast and when he was 5 years old, his family moved to Paris. From 1923 to 1927 he was studying and in 1927 he did his compulsory military service. In 1928 Dior and his friend Jacques Bonjean opened an art gallery on rue de la Boetie.Christian Dior are very hard working men because he never give up he still continuing dream becoming a top fashion entrepreneur. Christian Dior vision become a be a successful in fashion and be a world class fashion entrepreneur fashion designer and successful entrepreneur in fashion field .the day s 1931 Dior's beloved mother died, his brother also died and his family became ruined financially. He visited the Soviet Union and on his return found that his partner Bonjean had also become ruined. He fell seriously ill and left Paris for a year, returning in 1935. His friend Jean Ozenne gave him a place to stay and helped him to start sketching dresses and hats. Dior started to sell his sketches some of which were purchased by milliner Agnes. He also meets Robert Piguet, who bought some sketches, and some were published in "Le Figaro".
In 1938 Robert Piguet opened a fashion house, and Dior took his first job, when he joined him as a designer. However as the war had started, he had to leave Piguet and joined the military after a year. In 1941 after military service on his return to Paris, he joined Lucien Lelong as a designer. At Lelong, Dior was happy, he could design more or less as he pleased and he could remain in the background, as he preferred to do, with his problem of shyness.The first collection was to be presented on 12th February, 1947 and there were to be 90 designs worn by 6 girls.
In 1947 Dior thought long and hard about his first collection. He tried to think what the women of Paris and indeed the rest of the world, really wanted. He came to the conclusion that women everywhere were sick and tired of rationing, of doing without, of sacrifice, of shabby clothes made with the minimum of material, of wide shoulders and dresses like uniforms. He thought to himself "I have to bring back beauty, feminine clothes, soft rounded shapes, full flowing skirts, nipped-in waists and hemlines below the knee. I will make women feel like flowers again as they did in the 30's, I will call my collection COROLLE or ring of petals." You see that Dior is full of good vision the than he must design different fashion clothes to make beautiful and feminine . He also good idea and good plan to make sure he success this show than he have vision, plan all thing need to one entrepreneur and because than now her multimillions Dior boutique empire be very successful fashion boutique ever .
Dior is very unique have very unbeliever idea that make him be a fashion entrepreneur and because of he success others is the attitude he have very good he never give up until dead he will try a best until he success because he don’t want failed because he must win he must be a fashion designer and successful entrepreneur for makesure want planning is be done so nobody will lose their work .Most of the dresses required between 10 and 25 yards of material, some using up to 80 yards. The wgood fashion ere as wide, as long, as sumptuous and as costly as they could possibly be made. Evening dresses were made with bouffant skirts, layers of tulle over more layers. Pleated skirts, Gibson Girl bodices were much in evidence.
Never had been seen such an extravagant use of fabric. Women said "it is impossible to exaggerate the prettiness of the New Look. We are saved, beautiful clothes are back, gone are those stern padded shoulders, in are soft rounded shoulders, small waist, wide skirts four inches below the knee, little hats, and such well-made armour inside the dress that one does not even need underclothes."
One design called "Bar" of a shantung silk jacket over a black pleated skirt, became the most well-known of Dior's New Look creations.
1947 Autumn/Winter Figure 8 collection
Skirts became even wider and waists tinier, until the body did become somewhat similar to a figure 8.
1948 Spring/Summer Envol (Flight) collection
This showed Dior experimenting with asymmetry, which was absent from earlier designs and through gathering the skirts in sideswept or backswept folds, the designs resembled stiffened wings, thus the Flight theme. Also airborne were pointed and turned-up collars and suit jackets with tails jutting out. Daytime dresses reverted to the shorter lengths of 2 years ago.
1948 Autumn/Winter Zigzag collection
Dior explained that this theme was meant to animate the figure, demanding that the eyes follow the lines of folds boned, wired and lined to stick out as far as 2 feet from the body.
1949 Spring/Summer Trompe l'Oeil (deceive the eye) collection
This made use of separate panels to create an illusion of a fuller skirt, when the dress or coat underneath was actually narrow. Wide lapels and collars made the bust seem much wider.
1949 Autumn/Winter Milieu duSiecle (mid-Century) collection
Dior bloused the top of dresses to make them look two-piece.
1950 Spring/Summer Vertical collection
Dior lengthened the appearance of the body by using long narrow lapels, vertical tucks and pleating and showing boxy suits with pleated skirts.
195O Autumn/Winter Oblique collection
This made use of slanted lines, with wide scarves run diagonally through the belts of suits and the single breasted front closure of the jackets starting at one shoulder and continuing to the opposite hip.
195l Spring/Summer Naturelle or Oval collection
Here curves predominated with collarless, cutaway jackets used to connect faux-Empire and natural waistlines.
195l Autumn/Winter Long or Princesse collection
This did away with the intensely bifurcated waist.
1952 Spring/Summer Sinous collection
This was also called the open tulip line, where supple fabrics were crushed about the midriff and curved upwards towards the bust in soft and blurry colours.
1952 Autumn/Winter Profile or Stream-lined collection
This line had emphasis on the hips, accomplished by using stiff fabrics, manipulated by cut rather than by gathering or draping. 1953 Spring/Summer Tulip collection
Wide rounded necklines sliding off the shoulders provided the focal point for this line.
1953 Autumn/Winter Vivante (Alive) collection
Here we had shorter, narrow skirts which caused a lot of males to bellow "are women sheep".
1954 Spring/Summer Muguet (Lily of the valley) collection
This flower was Dior's favourite and he always tucked a spring of the flower into every dress as it went out to be presented. The collection based on the flower was light and spring-like, what the press called "relaxed".
1954 Autumn/Winter H-line collection
Dior introduced his elongated torso molded from hipbone to bust, which Time Magazine called the "second look". The idea was not to make the bust flatter, but higher and more youthful as well as less pointed. The waistline was now free and an era of loose-fitting shapes started to come in.
1955 Spring/Summer A-line collection
This is possibly the most famous collection after the New Look. It had narrow shoulders crowning a triangular shape.
1955 Autumn/Winter Y-line collection
Now Dior reversed himself completely and made broadened shoulders with higher waistlines and much less wide hemline.
1956 Dior designed a beautiful dress based on a Manet painting, which allowed him to use all his extravagant and colourful talents.
1956 Spring/Summer Fleche or Arrow collection
This had a Directoire feeling, with Empire waistlines.
1956 Autumn/Winter Aimant (Magnet) collection
This also featured Empire waistlines and V-necklines which also met the waistline in the middle.
1957 Spring/Summer Libre (Free) Collection
The was the harbinger of looser lines to come, with suits, jackets and skirts described as having ease and walkability.
1957 Autumn/Winter Fuseau or Spindle collection
Chemises dominated, some skirts even tapered in at the hem in an exact spindle shape. This was to be the "sack" dress of the next few years.
Other developments:
1947 Christian Dior perfume company is set up and he christens the first perfume "Miss Dior".
Pierre Cardin joins Dior and remains there until 1950.
1948 Dior luxury ready-to-wear is set up in New York. It is the first of it's kind.
1950 Dior stockings, ties, all other accessories are marketed in the USA under licence.
1951 Dior furs opens in Paris.
1952 onwards Dior salons are opened in London, Caracas, and many other cities
1955 Yves St. Laurent becomes Dior's first and only designing assistant.
1955 Launch of Dior lipsticks and beauty products.
The Master Dies
In 1957 suddenly Christian Dior dies of a heart attack and Yves St. Laurent takes over as the firm's artistic head. The fashion world was stunned The house of Dior employed over 1200 employees, spread among 28 workrooms and it's own police force to prevent pirating. It was a million dollar firm and his death represented a very great challenge to the house of Dior and even France itself.
But there was no need to worry. The house of Dior had within it two young designers who would ensure the future of Paris as the capital of fashion as well as the future of the house of Dior. One was Yves St. Laurent, who took over and presented a fantastic first collection, the Trapeze line and the other was Marc Bohan who followed YSL and remained nearly 30 years as head of Dior and himself had a very well received first collection the SLIM line.
Yves Saint Laurent for the House of DIOR
Yves St. Laurent came to the notice of Christian Dior through his friend Michel de Brunhoff. De Brunhoff was the chief judge of a competition set by the International Woold Secretariat in 1953, which was won by Yves St. Laurent, who submitted a design of an asymmetrically draped one-sleeved cocktail dress.
When de Brunhoff went through this young man's portfolio of designs, he was very impressed, particularly since some of the designs looked very much like the new A-line collection which his friend Christian Dior was preparing for presention.
De Brunhoff told Dior that he must take this young man into his salon, and although Dior was not initially keen to do so, when he saw his designs, he agreed. Dior only had one assistant throughout his life, and this was Yves St. Laurent.
While he was at Dior, he designed many dresses which appeared in the 6-monthly collections, particuarly 'bubble dresses" which were drawn in at the hemline on a band.
Dior felt that he was not being recognized enough for his work and did have plans to give him more recognition, but he died before these plans could be put into place.
Yves St. Laurent's first collection for Dior was called the "Trapeze" line and it was a great success. The newspaper headlines read:
"St. LAURENT HAS SAVED FRANCE, THE GREAT DIOR TRADITION WILL CONTINUE"
The young designer appeared on the balcony to greet the crowd The Trapeze Line
This design was a triangular shape, it flared gently from narrow shoulders to a shorter, wider hemline just covering the knees. By autumn all of Paris was wearing this shape dress.
Yves St. Laurent presented 6 collections for Dior. His 1959 collection was not very well received because he raised the hemline to the knees, belted every waist tightly and pulled the skirt into a tight kneeband. YSL was not very concerned about the criticism as he said "indignation is a good sign, it means fashion is alive and well."
1960 The Spring/Summer collection was also very shocking, it was Beatnik, motor-cycle jackets made of alligator skin, mink coats with ribbed sweater sleeves and turtlenecks under finely cut suits. The staff at Dior felt YSL had misjudged the Dior clientele.
In 1960, Yves St. Laurent was called for military service, and on his return he found that Marc Bohan had been given charge of the House of Dior. St. Laurent was very angry about this, and sued legally against Dior since he had a contract for the position with Dior. He was granted compensation of 48,000 pounds and used this to set up his own salon.
Marc Bohan for the house of DIOR.
1960 Marc Bohan was 34 years old when he took over Dior.
1961 Dior under Marc Bohan presents the first collection the "Slim Line" which is very well received.
1967 Miss Dior ready-to-wear is opened in France, and a "Baby Dior" boutique is opened.
1968 Dior knitwear Co-ordinates is opened.
1970 Dior menswear is launched
1973 Dior ready-to-wear fur collection is launched.
1987 Musee de la Mode presents an exhibition of Dior creations to mark the 30th anniversary of his death.
In 1989, there was another change of designer at Dior.
Gianfranco Ferre 1989 - 1997
John Galliano
The house of DIOR is still one of the most successful Haute Couture houses in the world. John Galliano took over in 1997 and brought a new creative image for the house of Dior.
In 2001, Dior appointed Hedi Slimane as chief designer for Dior Menswear.
In late 2001, Dior opened a new jewellery store in the Place Vendome in Paris, alongside all the leading jewellers Carter, Chaumet, Boucheron and Van Cleef and Arpels. The new store was personally set up by Victoria de Castellane who runs Dior's jewellery activities.
Ready-to-Wear - Spring/Summer 2003
John Galliano presented the Dior Spring/Summer 2003 collection in Paris in October 2002. This is an outfit from that collection where he has turned model Giselle Bundchen into a man, with a silky shirt.
His collection has now matured, showing accessible versions of the crazy garments he has been putting on the catwalk in the last few seasons. But colours were still very strong, and ethnic references were discarded in favour of all-out glamour.
Haute Couture - Spring/Summer 2003
In January 2003, John Galliano showed his Spring 2003 Haute Couture collection for Dior in Paris. It was a brilliant romp through Chinese culture, as can be seen from the dress shown on the right.
Galliano has been searching Asia for inspiration and the show was a tour de force of music, light effects and very impressive clothes. Huge wraps in pink faille embroidered with flowers, crinolines and multi-layered robe dresses. The accessories were equally elaborate, seven-inch heeled platform shoes, bags cut like Chinese boats and a six foot wide red umbrella were amontg the great pieces.
Ready-to-Wear - Fall/Winter 2003
John Galliano presented the Dior ready-to-wear Fall collection during Paris Fashion Week in March 2003. The outfit on the left is from that show.
He adapted his Couture garments in the Chinese style into more wearable proportions. His creative imagination used the exotic Asian flower prints again and lowered the height of the shoes. But basically it was his couture collection all over again.
Oscar Night 2003
On Oscar Night in March 2003, among the celebrities on the red carpet, was Hilary Swank in this beautiful pink Dior gown.
Haute Couture - Fall/Winter 2003
John Galliano sent out another brilliant collection in Paris in July. It was dedicated to the dance and particularly inspired by the Spanish Flamenco. Models wore the Spanish ruffled skirts in brilliant colours and the audience was spellbound.
Spring/Summer 2004
During Paris Fashion Week in October 2003, John Galliano showed his Dior collection for next Spring. A dress from this collection is shown on the right.
John did not use his extensive research trips from some exotic part of the world for this collection, he went back to the 1930s and Marlene Dietrich. He created curvy gunmetal satin suits, fox-fur jackets, his signature print chiffon dresses and some ultra-sexy swimwear.
Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2004
Galiano went right the way back to ancient Egypt for his Haute Couture collection shown in Paris in January 2004,, sending model Erin O'Connor down the runway with a chaperon head-dress and false postiche beard. His crispy striped organza was straight out of King Tutankhamen's tomb. He used reptilian leather, hieroglyphic prints, scarab earrings, and all manner of Egyptian touches.
He had taken a trip to Cairo and Luxor last year which inspired him to use the 5,000 year old culture in a completely modern way and he excelled himself in showmanship.
Fall/Winter 2004 ready-to-wear
John Galliano presented his Dior Fall collection in Paris during Fashion Week in March 2004. He introduced Poiret-style fur-collared coats from the early days of the century, worn over lacy chiffon dresses. Sneakers were worn with these outfits. Some pretty fragile evening dresses that John does so well, were included, with watery pastel chiffons. He made it a witty and fast-paced show, but there weren't any of the big surprises which we have come to expect from a Galliano show, except for BIG clown-size shoulders and torsos on some creations.
Haute Couture Fall 2004
John Galliano was inspired by royalty and dressed his models in crowns, carrying orbs and regalia, over velvet robes which reminded his audience of turn-of-the century Europe and it's doomed royal families. Jewel-embroidered silks and satins, with huge hemlines of ermine and mink were worn with Stephen Jones tiaras, and huge chandelier earrings. This was a show to keep Haute Couture high on a pedestal.
Christian Dior credited his brilliant-but-short career to a roll of the dice. "I would be ungrateful, and certainly incorrect, if I didn't write, in all capitals, the word "LUCK" at the beginning of the adventure that became my career," Dior penned as the first line of his autobiography, "Christian Dior et Moi."
Born just outside Paris in 1905, Dior enjoyed a normal, happy childhood between Paris and vacationson the Normandy coast. The only early sign of Dior's imminent fashion genius was his propensity tocreate stunning costumes and disguises during the annual carnival celebrations hosted by his home town of Granville.
Dior spent his most precious hours navigating the maze of Paris' many museums and galleries. After a parental decision sidetracked him into a political science school (and an obligatory stint in the French military), Dior returned to his first love, opening an art gallery with his friend Jacques Banjean.
In 1931, at the age of 26, Dior's world crumbled at his feet. All in the stretch of a few months, his mother succumbed to cancer, his father's company went bankrupt, and Dior himself contracted tuberculosis and was forced to abandon his art gallery.
Living off the hospitality of others, Dior's obvious design talents were encouraged by a friend who then took on the task of soliciting Dior's work to acquaintances in the fashion world. In 1938 Dior took his first real leap toward fashion stardom when he was hired as a designer at a fashion house run by Robert Piquet. Called briefly into service during World War II, Dior would return to Paris in 1941 only to find his post with Piquet filled by someone else.
After several fruitful years working with Pierre Balmain at Lucien Lelong, Dior's big break came in 1946 when he met Marcel Boussac. Boussac offered Dior the chance to direct the resurgence of a has-been fashion house called Philippe and Gaston. Intrigued by the offer, but also an adept businessman, Dior proposed the creation of his own fashion house. With Boussac's financial assistance, Dior opened the doors to the house that would become an institution on December 16, 1946.
Dior's success was sealed with the very first line that bore his name in 1947. Dubbed the "New Look", Dior delivered women's fashion from the rigid parameters of war and glorified the beauty of the human form. "We are leaving a period of war, of uniforms and of boxed soldier-women", Dior said. Dior's creations, which molded themselves to the female form, played with the length and girth of skirts and promoted the bustline, were a welcome change in a war-weary world starved for sensuality.
Since Dior's death in 1957 at the age of 52, his house has passed through the hands of Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, and Gianfranco Ferr?efore landing in the lap of 35-year-old Brit designer John Galliano,, former artistic director at Givenchy, this year.
Born in Gibraltar to an English father and Spanish mother, the restless Galliano quit school at 16to learn fabric design at East London College. In 1984, he graduated from St. Martin's School of Art with a triumphant collection of eight French Revolution garments. Galliano's first collection, entitled "Afghanistan Repudiates Western Ideal", cemented his reputation as a hugely talented eccentric. In it are the Mohican motifs that resurfaced in his collection for Givenchy shown in March 1995.
Galliano's switch to Christian Dior after only a year with Givenchy was the stuff that media hype is made of. With his eccentric, everchanging looks, (the Rhett Butler moustache, the mohawk, the wild-man dreadlocks), that mirror his inspirations for each collection, Galliano is the house of Dior's most flamboyant successor. In spite of sometimes shaky reviews and constant rumours about LVMH dropping him, Galliano's daring and extravagant shows have kept the buzz going, and impressive sales figures prove that Dior has been betting on the winning horse.

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